A tale of two cities

Yorkshire is often referred to with somewhat mystical expressions. This much-loved land of rolling hills, warm hospitality and above all, fantastic tea, instills an indomitable sense of pride in its countrymen and a keen desire to return in its visitors. I've always slightly wondered why.

On my most recent visit, I spent my first ever night in Leeds. All I really knew about the city beforehand was that it had a university that lots of my, shall we say fun-loving?, friends had been to - the student union did, after all, have the longest bar in Europe before St Pancras stole the crown.

What I wasn't aware of was its fantastic Victorian architecture. Walking around the city I couldn't stop looking up. Every building seems to have an ornate brick facade, complete with stately arched windows and well-preserved period features such as chimney stacks or domed turrets. The Victoria Quarter may be primarily a cathedral of retail but there's much more here for the architecture enthusiast than just a few traditional shopfronts. The high-end stores which populate this glassed-in arcade network are all a uniform style, with gold-on-black name signs and clear uncluttered windows. It all smacks of rules and regulations somewhat but the overall effect is beautiful and there's surely no better place in Yorkshire for a coffee than the Harvey Nichols cafe in the County Arcade where customers sit at small round tables under the vast domed glass ceiling.

My purpose in the city was to take a cocktail masterclass at The Rock Bar (more to come in the Guardian on this next month) and this gave me a taste for that infamous nightlife I'd heard so much about. The Rock Bar is an Ibiza-inspired chilled out space where drinkers of all ages come to relax under the indoor tree, in the Bedouin tent or on the terrace. I'd have felt just as at home with a coffee as with my mojito here.

Back at my hotel, the City Inn, I had a fabulous fillet steak teriyaki overlooking the city lights from the thirteenth-floor Skylounge. I was really impressed with the standard of this hotel and not just because it wowed me with technology (there were two, two!, iMacs in the room) but also because the service was good, the room very modern without compromising on comfort, and I had great views over the Tower Works. Perfect.

Things went slightly wrong in York, where I stayed at the extremely disappointing Golden Fleece. Service here was offhand and the room more ramshackle than characterful. Fortunately I wasn't here to stay in the room and spent many a happy hour wandering the city's lovely historic centre instead. I was here to encounter some ghosts (again, more on that to come in the Guardian soon) but also found a great restaurant - the Blue Bicycle. This used to be a brothel but instead of playing let's pretend and ignoring its rather colourful history, the Blue Bicycle wears it proudly, even using an image of a topless girl as its logo - something which they acknowledge presents certain marketing problems! Downstairs here are the booths where the girls' business was carried out, today making charming little nooks for romantic dinners. Valentines Day, I'm told, was booked out months in advance.

On this visit, Yorkshire continued to worm its way under my skin. There really is something a bit magical about this part of the UK - and I've never had as many people be jealous of a work trip as when I said the magic word York!

Dartmoor rocks

Having spent many an unhappy childhood holiday doing what I considered to be "trudging" up tors on Dartmoor, I was excited to head back to Devon's moorlands for a visit last week to write a piece on cycling for the Guardian and challenge my perceptions of a place I used to think miserable.

Not generally the most outdoorsy of people I was slightly nervous about the prospect of spending a full blustery February day on the moors with nothing but a bike for company but I needn't have worried - amidst the rolling hills and striking tors are numerous cosy self-catering cottages, luxurious hotels and five-star restaurants to sooth those weary limbs and make the great outdoors a little bit greater.

I stayed in two very different places, both of which were luxurious in very different ways. Old Tavistock Railway Cottages were a revelation. As soon as I saw the website I knew I had to stay there - three five-star luxury self-catering cottages carved out of the old railway station, a listed building which has been lovingly preserved, retaining its original platform canopy and station doors. Everything was very new and all mod cons were in place, but the charm remained and I was really taken with the original fireplaces, restored stained glass windows and beautiful antique furniture. This is a place with true character but that doesn't compromise on modern facilities - I could have cooked a full Sunday roast in the kitchen and the rolltop bath was a heavenly addition to the otherwise very modern wet-room bathroom.

My other accommodation was the Kingston Estate, where I slept in what felt like a stately home with all the red velvet cords removed from the doorways. The fantastically old-school owners Elizabeth and Michael Corfield made me feel thoroughly at home - something which was helped by the fact that I was the only person staying there! No TV in the rooms, all open log fires and a wonderfully traditional attitude to dinner made me actually slow down for once - a refreshing change in pace I was sorry to say goodbye to when I eventually dragged myself away the next morning.

It wasn't just accommodation where Dartmoor impressed me either. The wonderful Two Bridges Inn right in the centre of the moor was serving up fabulous local produce including the freshest of lamb and the local Jail Ale from the brewery down the road in its warm lounge. I sunk a bit too far into the sofa in front of the log fire but sadly didn't have time to stay the night. I did have a peek in the rooms though and found just the right blend of the luxury and the traditional. For those who like a celebrity connection, one was even a favourite of Vivien Leigh's who stayed here a few times.

Of course, the main attraction on Dartmoor is the superlative scenery and I was truly taken aback by its beauty. Clearly as a child I had my eyes shut because I never appreciated it, I just remember a lot of moaning! There was no moaning on this trip though, just lots of pulling up at the roadside, mouth open, to take in the view. It seems there really is a fine line between love and hate and for me, this time, that line was a cycle path. I'll be back.